Is fine dining meant to be an exclusively lunchtime affair? For those of us who are part of the '5am Club' – the early birds who thrive on being awake, fueled by caffeine, and creatively jotting down ideas before the sun even thinks about rising – the Four Seasons' recent introduction of London's first Michelin-starred breakfast is an absolute dream. Now, we can indulge in this early morning ritual over a £70, five-course tasting menu, all served from a chic counter within a beautifully serene, pastel-hued dining room.
Of course, securing a reservation for this exclusive experience is a feat in itself, and if you've managed it, well done! For those who can't snag a spot, fear not! You can still enjoy a very similar culinary journey by simply sitting a little further from the counter and ordering from the regular breakfast menu, just without the detailed explanations from the chef.
Chef Yannick Alléno is, in my opinion, doing us all a grand service by gathering us early risers into one dedicated space. He's effectively distracting us with delights like lobster flatbread and a unique "amuse juice". Let's be honest, as early risers, we can be quite a handful! Have you ever endured a booming early morning WhatsApp voice note from someone like me? Or been woken by the sound of furniture being rearranged or vigorous stomping from a walking desk? People like us can be a bit of a menace, and it's probably for the best that we're contained, allowing the rest of the world to enjoy their sleep.
From a business perspective, the concept of offering pricey, Michelin-starred chia puddings to those who simply can't hit the snooze button is nothing short of genius. It provides a sophisticated setting for us to meet and entertain colleagues, perhaps over salted maple pancakes or exquisite fancy French toast. This brings us to a rather intriguing question: does fine dining truly have to wait until lunchtime? With younger generations increasingly opting out of alcohol and late-night revelry, we might be entering a new era of hospitality where a grand, upscale breakfast becomes the main event.
But let's get practical for a moment: who is going to staff these incredibly polished, early-morning fine dining establishments? The Four Seasons seems to have this aspect well under control, with a small, impeccably dressed team performing their duties with precision at 7:45 am. My coat was whisked away to the cloakroom, and a stool was promptly provided for my handbag. My requests for lapsang souchong tea and "orchard juice" were met with efficiency, and a lusciously glossy pain au chocolat arrived as a delightful opening treat. While the pastry was undoubtedly delicious, with a perfectly balanced amount of chocolate, it wasn't exactly revolutionary. It was accompanied by a small jar of premium Maison Laurino jam.
By 8 am, I found myself dining near a prominent investor who has been making headlines. He was enjoying the eggs royale, which were described as wonderfully runny and served on a superb English muffin, complete with a flawless hollandaise sauce and artful presentation. As someone who has experienced countless breakfasts, I usually steer clear of poached eggs, as they tend to be served cold. However, that was certainly not the case here! They also offer eggs benedict and eggs florentine, with the option to add 5g of caviar for an additional £25.
To my right, a Saudi couple with their three children were savoring exotic mango chia pudding, receiving attentive service from the staff. At the counter, chefs were explaining a special chicken samosa topped with a fried egg and delicate fried vermicelli to an influencer. While this dish had hints of Malaysian mee goreng, I found it potentially a bit too rich for such an early hour. The coconut-based chia pudding, on the other hand, was an absolute revelation, even if its appearance might be likened to 'fruity frogspawn'.
However, the undisputed star of the show was the French toast. It appeared as a humble, unassuming slice of grilled brioche adorned with toasted hazelnuts. Yet, with the very first bite, it transformed into a sublime flavor bomb, bursting with vanilla and a creamy, eggy richness, all encased in a delightfully thin, crispy exterior. It was served with a citrus-infused whipped cream, a pleasant addition, but frankly unnecessary, as this French toast was perfect on its own.
There's no denying that this breakfast is heavily carb-based and incredibly filling. It's the antithesis of a meal designed to boost productivity for the day. By the time the French toast arrived, I had already contemplated returning home for a nap to recover. This was not a morning for empire-building! (Guests on the tasting menu also receive a small sweet baked gift to enjoy later).
While there's certainly buzz around the Four Seasons breakfast, I'm not convinced they've entirely pioneered the concept of ultra-early fine dining. Similar exceptional experiences can be found at nearby establishments like Hide and Cédric Grolet at The Berkeley. Nevertheless, the trend of upscale power breakfasts is undeniably gaining momentum. My primary concern, however, remains how they will recruit and retain a legion of staff willing to be so vibrant and engaging from 6 am. It takes a very special kind of server who, at such an ungodly hour, can maintain a fine-dining level of service, stay in character, and engage in conversations about ingredient provenance as if it were a sophisticated dinner.
Three cheers for the 5am Club! Up ridiculously early, full of energy, and constantly discovering new ways to, shall we say, enhance everyone else's morning!
Breakfast at Pavyllon, Four Seasons Hotel, Hamilton Place, Park Lane, London W1.
Opening Hours: 6:30 am - 10:30 am daily (7 am on Sundays).
Breakfast Tasting Menu: Available Saturday & Sunday only, priced at £70 per person for five courses, including tea or coffee. Additional drinks and service charges apply.
But here's where it gets controversial... Is it truly innovative to offer a high-end breakfast experience, or is it simply catering to a niche that already exists? And what about the staff – are they genuinely happy to be there at such an early hour, or is it a performance? What are your thoughts on the rise of the 'power breakfast'? Do you think it's a positive shift in dining culture, or a bit of an unnecessary extravagance? Let me know in the comments below!
