The legendary menswear designer, Veronique Nichanian, bid farewell to her esteemed position at Hermès with a spectacular runway show, marking her 87th collection and final showcase as the brand's artistic director. This momentous occasion, held in the neoclassical Palais Brongniart in Paris, was a testament to her enduring influence on the fashion industry.
As the crowd of 600 guests arrived, Nichanian, aged 71, was in a private room with her team, donning a sweater adorned with a pin that read, 'The Last Dance'. Despite her retirement announcement in October, Nichanian expressed her enthusiasm, hinting at potential tears but maintaining her composure. Her decision to step down was driven by a lifelong dream of residing in Tokyo, where she plans to spend the next six months.
Hermès appointed Grace Wales Bonner as her successor, with Bonner's debut set for January 2027. Nichanian's departure signifies a new era for Hermès menswear, and she expressed confidence in Bonner's abilities, stating, 'It’s time for another person to take men’s Hermès, and to do what she can—it’s great.'
The evening's atmosphere was a blend of nostalgia and celebration. Travis Scott, a guest, acknowledged Nichanian's impact by keeping a low profile, dressed in a trim pinstripe suit. He shared his admiration for Nichanian, who has been a mentor to him and many other fashion enthusiasts. Her influence is evident in her pioneering of 'quiet luxury,' a style that seamlessly blends casual sophistication with princely fabrics and exquisite detailing.
However, Nichanian's designs are not always understated. She has also been instrumental in introducing men to the world of vibrant colors and bold fashion statements, such as the iconic croc leather jacket. Her impact on artisanal menswear is profound, inspiring a wave of contemporary labels that specialize in understated blousons, smart trousers, and exquisite fabrics.
Despite her reluctance to look back, Nichanian's consistency across the decades is remarkable. She revealed that her approach to design has remained unchanged, and her show reflected this. She subtly incorporated some of her favorite looks throughout the collection, such as a leather moto jacket-jumpsuit from 1991 and a leather pinstripe suit from 2003, showcasing her timeless style.
The collection itself was a testament to Nichanian's enduring style, featuring plaid sweaters with colorful leather strips, crocodile jeans, a shearling-lined flight jacket, and shiny chain d'ancre wallet chains. The show concluded with Nichanian taking her 87th bow, leaving the audience in awe and a hint of nostalgia, as she expressed, 'It went by so fast!'
